A French platinum, 18k white gold, diamond and gem-set Art Deco bracelet - image-1
A French platinum, 18k white gold, diamond and gem-set Art Deco bracelet - image-2
A French platinum, 18k white gold, diamond and gem-set Art Deco bracelet - image-1A French platinum, 18k white gold, diamond and gem-set Art Deco bracelet - image-2

Lot 107 Dα

A French platinum, 18k white gold, diamond and gem-set Art Deco bracelet

Auction 1066 - overview Cologne
19.05.2016, 17:00 - Jewellery and Watches
Estimate: 15.000 € - 20.000 €
Result: 64.480 € (incl. premium)

A French platinum, 18k white gold, diamond and gem-set Art Deco bracelet

Designed as an openwork band milligrain set with 418 old-, brilliant- and 8/8-cut diamonds (in total ca. 22.48 ct), two undulating floral tendrils with facetted rubies (135 stones, in total ca. 7.50 ct) and emeralds (79 stones, in total ca. 7.50 ct) and four large old-cut diamonds (in total ca. 3.20 ct). Total diamond weight ca. 25.65 ct. Paris stamp for platinum and gold after 1927, maker's mark "LM". L 18.5 cm, W 3.7 cm. Weight 86.8 g.
Ca. 1930.

This bracelet is a typical example of mid-1920s taste. Parallel to the geometric Art Déco style, this period also saw the emergence of a style influenced by the Egyptian taste in which sculptural coloured stone motifs were contrasted with shimmering planes of pavé set diamonds. The exact setting of the calibrated, relief-cut coloured gems, was an exceedingly complex process requiring exceptional artisanal skill.

Literature

Cf. Bennett/Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, 2011, p. 333, pl. 597, for a similar model with naturalistic rose tendrils.