An 18k gold gemstone intaglio bangle
Solid gold bangle with a hinged clasp and fine gold coloured matte decor, inset with 16 Hellenistic and ancient Roman intaglios in various colours. Hallmarks: Maker's mark "FD". W 3 cm. Diameter 5 x 5.8 cm. Weight 143.3 g.
Fritz Deutsch, Cologne, 1970s.
1) Red jasper carved with a chimaera in armour, 2nd / 3rd C. A.D. 2) Carnelian carved with a hand by an ear, 3rd C. A.D. 3) Green jasper carved with a shepherd scene, 2nd / 3rd C. A.D. 4) Carnelian carved with a mascaron, 3rd / 4th C. A.D. 5) Layered chalcedony carved with a hetaera mascaron, dented, 1st / 2nd C. A.D. 6) Chrome chalcedony carved with Cupid and a dog, 2nd / 3rd C. A.D. 7) Carnelian carved with a rooster and a rabbit, 3rd C. A.D. 8) Red jasper carved with Zeus Sarapis, 1st / 2nd C. A.D. 9) Nicolo carved with a fly, 1st / 2nd C. A.D. 10) Carnelian carved with the head of a woman, fragmentary, 2nd / 3rd C. A.D., 11) Dark green jasper carved with a phallic herm, 3rd C. A.D. 12) Chrome chalcedony carved with the head of Janus, 2nd / 3rd C. A.D. 13) Layered onyx carved with Leda and the Swan, 2nd / 3rd C. A.D. 14) Garnet cabochon carved with a griffon, 1st C. B.C., 15) Garnet cabochon carved with the head of Dionysos, 1st C. B.C., 16) Carnelian carved with a bust of Mercury, 1st C. A.D.
This bangle is also a custom-made piece using intaglios from the patron's collection. Fritz Deutsch already became an expert in working with antique gem carvings in the workshop of the goldsmith Elisabeth Treskow. His works are characterised by a refined blending of tradition and modernity. In this design, he increased the luminosity of the intaglios by placing them in openwork settings. Combined with the raw, abstract ornamentation of the gold, the piece perfectly suited the taste of the 1970s. At the same time, the gold band in which the intaglios are set retains an air of antiquity reminiscent of Byzantine works.
Provenance
The intaglios from the former collection of the archaeologist Dr. Horst-Ulbo Bauer, Cologne. Estate of Inca Bauer.